After my amazing "Close Encounter of the Turtle Kind", I was keen to get back out on to the reef to see what else this amazing place had in store for me. So I was up bright and early, scoffed my breakfast down super fast, grabbed my stuff and headed to the beach.
The previous morning, we hadn't actually made it into the water until after 11.30. This was because I needed to catch on some sleep after my traumatic journey, but also due to the fact that I hadn't used my own fins since Honduras in 2014 (I'd hired them everywhere I'd been since due to luggage weight and space issues.) So getting ready to go, I'd completely forgotten about the handy, quick release catch that loosens the back strap. Trying to work the very tight strap ( designed to fit snugly around the ankle) over the foot and into position was like trying to fit into a pair of jeans that are 2 sizes too small, whilst being gently buffeted by waves. Wiggle, wiggle, pull, pull, wiggle and breathe (wipe sweat from brow). Wiggle, pull, wiggle. Nearly there, nope - lost it again.
I couldn't remember having this much trouble before and then I remembered the catch!
So this bright sunny and relatively early morning, I had no such bother and was on my way out to the reef by 9.30am.
The difference a couple of hours can make! The water was as clear as a bell and not only were there millions of fishes, they were all whizzing about like mad things. It was like being in the middle of the morning rush hour!
I don't think I will ever get bored of watching the underwater world - it's fascinating.
The first type of fish you can't help but notice, are "The Show-Offs. ( Don't worry I'm not going to go all marine scientist on you and start reeling off their proper names). These are the ones who dart around and above the reef, often in pairs, flaunting their pretty colours and lovely markings. There is nothing shy and reserved about them - they know they are beautiful and would have their own Facebook page and Instagram account filled with "selfies" given half a chance.
Then there are "The Sand Makers". These are Parrot fish, which come in all different sizes and a range of lovely colours. If there are no noisy waves, boats or loud snorkellers around and you try to breathe very quietly ( not always easy if you have a snorkel that whistles) you can hear a sort of chomping noise. These are the Parrot fish biting off chunks of hard coral which they then poo out as sand. It's quite a sight, to see a large fish swimming along, leaving a cloud of sand behind him.
So that lovely White sandy beach, we all dream of lying on, is in fact, made of fish poop.Â
The "Agoraphobics" find one specific tiny patch of coral to call home and swim in and out of it's fronds, never moving more than a few inches away. Sometimes, one of them will just stray about 6 inches away, without realising. All the others then clump together - presumably shouting, "come back - come back - you don't know what's out there and we will never see you again" at which point the explorer panics and shoots back home.
I particularly like the "Don't mess with me" guys. These are little Brown fish that like to hang around places with good hidey holes on top of the reef.. What they lack in exterior beauty, they more than make up for in attitude. Because their home rocks are very near to the surface, you can get up close and personal, and as you point the camera, one of them will pop out of their hole, look you straight between the eyes, give you a big long stare and then high-tail it back in again. You can just imagine him telling the story to his mates. "Well, there was this humongous monster right outside the door. I've seen it before in the distance, but this time it came really really close. It was pretty scary, I can tell you, but I showed it what's what. - it's gone now, so you can all relax" - All the fish clap and cheer.
I've already mentioned the Synchronised Swimmers. Huge shoals of fish that move in the water as one. I'd love to know how they decide who leads. Do they have a general election or does it work more like royalty with the top spot being handed down through generations? I've tried several times to film this phenomenon, sadly without any success - but there is always another day.
I feel quite sorry for the "Masters of Disguise" because frankly they are not! Once up on a time, when the Coral was healthy and thriving, I'm sure they blended into their surroundings beautifully. But sadly, that's no longer the case. Pollution and Global Warming are doing so much damage to the reefs across the world, at such a fast rate - evolution hasn't got a chance of keeping up.
So now these poor little fish, stick out like a sore thumb. I don't know if they have fully grasped the precariousness of their situation, because they keep perfectly still when you approach - presumably thinking they are perfectly camouflaged . With a bit of luck, they may still be able to fool a large predator, but they are no match for an eagle eyed snorkeller with her contact lenses in and a reading prescription in her mask.
Next we have what I like to call The Hangers On. They are quite small but pretty with a flash of Blue and Silver running along their side. These little fellas don't see the point of swimming anywhere if they can hitch a ride. They hide in some convenient coral until something goes by. Anything will do, whether it's a big old Parrot fish or a small surgeon-fish (better known as Dory from finding Nemo ) - they just don't care.Â
Some of the "fish transport" don't seem to mind - or maybe they don't even notice the little bugger clinging to their back. Others get very ratty and spin around to let the little hanger on know, that their presence is not welcome.
Update : I've since learned that these fish are not hitching a ride - they are manning a cleaning station. So the others all come to these little ones for a bit of a spa treatment. Just shows you how wrong you can be!!
Lastly, there are the ones we all wish would bugger off elsewhere. - "The Stingers".
Until now, the jelly fish I have encountered, have been very easy to spot on account of being flipping enormous and/or quite pretty. But for obvious reasons, I'm perfectly happy to forgo the pleasure of seeing some more. So I was delighted when there were no signs of any on this reef. However, on my first marathon snorkel round the island, I felt a little sharp sting on my leg at one point, turned around to see what it was, but there was nothing there. Later on, it happened again, this time on my cheek ( face not bum), but I still couldn't see anything.
This was even more of a mystery, as whatever it was, would have been right in my line of vision.
Back on dry land, both stings had started to itch and my guide smiled and said "ah jellyfish" - "but I didn't see anything" I replied. He nodded, "they are very tiny". So all I can say, is that if something you can hardly see, can deliver that level of sting - thank goodness there are no big ones around.
Of course these represent only a few of the different characters out there on the reef, and over the next few posts, I will post some more pictures to give you a taster of why the Maldives is a must visit for any would be snorkellers.
After a very enjoyable session, my wrinkly-fingers-clock was telling me that it was time for lunch.
As I've mentioned before - it's very hot here, so to avoid getting burned to a cinder, I felt it was wise to stay out of the sun (time to blog) and go for my afternoon snorkel a bit later. I also thought that if I was on the reef at approximately the same sort of time as yesterday, I may meet up with my new friend the Turtle again.
So after a couple of hours, I started getting ready to go. This always takes a while because a) I'm exceedingly messy and can never find anything, b) I always remember something I've forgotten when I've locked the door and have an armful of fins, boots snorkel etc. and c)I have the daily challenge of getting to the beach without offending the locals by exposing bits (shoulders & thighs), having not brought a single thing that is suitable, with me.
Finally ready, I was just leaving the guest house, when Bari gave me a wave and said "I think it's going to rain". My first thought was, "well that will be a blessed relief from the heat and humidity - should clear the air a bit" and I certainly wasn't going to let a few drops of rain get in the way of a a possible encounter with my Turtle.
So I assured him that being a Brit, I didn't mind a bit of rain and after all, I was going snorkelling, so would be wet anyway.
So with a friendly little wave, I set off up the road to the beach. Half way there, I felt a few spots of rain, but ignored them. As I arrived, the handful of people who had clearly been sunning themselves all afternoon, were packing up to leave, so I checked to make sure there were people on the dock at the Dive centre nearby, just so I wouldn't be out there alone, with no-one to wave at, in an emergency.
 People to save me if I drown - check. No kit left back in my room - check. Weather looking ok - hmm not so sure about that one.Â
It was definitely raining a bit heavier and the sky had gone a worrying shade of Black, but I still thought I'd be ok.
So I kitted up and headed out to the reef. It's incredible the difference, a change in the weather makes. The water wasn't as clear and the handful of fish I could see, seemed to be a lot less active than usual. Did they know something I didn't?
I made my way to the 2 iron domes, where I had met the Turtle and had a look around. No sign of him - or much else for that matter. This was very odd - the reef had been buzzing just a few hours earlier, so where was everybody?
I popped my head up and started to realise the problem. The sky was now completely covered in big Black clouds and the rain was coming down really hard. Then I heard the thunder - which underwater, sounds like a massive explosion and is not at all recommended for a nice relaxing snorkel.
OK - I know we British are supposed to stoic and used to inclement weather, but I'm sure you'll agree that it's probably not a good idea to be swimming around in the ocean, in the middle of a thunderstorm.   I turned swiftly around, put my head down and started kicking as fast as my fins would allow. Then the sea lit up all around me.  Oh shit, oh shit - that was lightening.
Head up to check how far I had to to go - nearly there thank goodness.
I got my fins off in record time, whipped off my mask and ran up the beach to the only a shelter available - under the large shady tree. Now I don't know about you, but I was always told you should never stand under a tree in a thunderstorm, but at that moment in time, it seemed preferable to standing exposed and alone in the middle of the beach. At least if the tree got hit, I had a 50/50 chance of diving for safety. If I was the target - not so much!!!!
In Spain, a massive thunderstorm can come and go in less than an hour. In the UK they can last all day. I had no idea how long a typical Maldives storm lasts, so I decided to leg it back to the relative safety of my guest house.
By now it was chucking it down in buckets, so the minute I left the shelter of the tree, all my stuff that had been dry, was now as wet as my swimming gear.Â
So imagine if you will, someone trying to "leg it", down a road that just 20 minutes ago been White fluffy "fish poop" (sand), but was now that squishy slidey kind of mud that sucks the flip flops off your feet - whilst trying to keep a wringing wet sarong around the waist (always be respectful) and carrying 2 giant fins, a snorkel/mask, a large beach towel (also sopping wet) and a bag full important things that need to be kept dry - like my cigarettes and lighter!!!
Knowing that Bod is still very new to tourism, I have been trying very hard to show the local people that we foreigners can be polite and respectful, and up until that moment, I think I'd been doing an ok job. Unfortunately, many of them were standing or sitting outside, watching the storm (but sensibly under cover), so I'm not sure if I can ever show my face outside my guest house again.
Of course the very second I stepped onto my terrace - it stopped raining and the weather started to clear!
Once I had put everything out to dry (including myself), I spent a lovely evening sifting through my photos and writing this blog There was a brief interlude for a Kingsley's yummy version of fish and chips - Tuna steaks with a delicious sauce and a massive portion of chips.
For once in my life I went to bed early and actually managed to get to sleep. I think it was the thought of getting up at 6.30am, because........ I was going on my first boat trip!!!!!!